Mera Peak Climbing information

Mera Peak Climbing in Nepal

Mera Peak (6654m) is highest permitted climbing peak of Nepal, rises to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the wild and heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hungu Drangkas and is not truly speaking part of the Khumbu Himal. It should also be noted that there is a discrepancy between the official height given by the NMA (6654m) and the Schneider Map (6476m).
The first ascent of Mera Peak was, made by J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing on 20 May 1953, by the now standard route from the Mera La. It was during this season that Roberts made the first western exploration of the Lumding, Hinku (Inukhu) and Hongu valleys. It would appear that Mera did not receive a subsequent ascent until 1978 when French climbers Marcel Jolly, G. Baus and L. Honills climbed the North Peak, following the same route as Roberts but traversing along the connecting ridge to the further summit.
Both the Hongu and Hinku valleys remain uninhabited although there are Kharka in the Upper Hinku basin where Sherpa from the south, near Pangkongma, graze their animals during the grass-growing monsoon. By its standard route from the Mera La, the ascent is technically straightforward; however, after a heavy fall of snow or when the maze of crevasses are open, the way can be long and demanding. Far and above the most rewarding aspect of a trip to Mera is a chance to venture into a little-visited and as yet unspoilt region of Nepal where the hillsides are still densely forested and a need to be self-sufficient is essential. There is also, of course, the pleasure of going above 6000m.

Mera Peak climbing information

  • Climbing Destination: Mera Peak summit
  • Highest Access: 6654m
  • Best Season: March - May, October - November
  • Climbing Grade: Mountaineering Group "B"
  • Climbing Period: 19 days
  • Climbing Region: Everest/Makalu Region
  • Group Size: 02 Min. 06 Max.

Mera Peak climbing highlights

  • Known as the Nepal's highest Trekking Peak
  • Scenic and adventuire mountain flights Lukla
  • Dominates the watershed between the wild & heavily wooded valleys - Situated on the edge of the famous Khumbu region, which is dominated by Mount Everest
  • Explore Sherpa culture. - Remarkable views of Ice fall. - Spectacular mountain views from summit, including, Mt.Everest (8848m) Mt. Kanchanjunga (8586 m) Mt. Lhotse(8516 m), Mt. Makalau (8485 m ) and more others over 7000m.

Mera Peak climbing outline itinerary

  • Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu
  • Day 02: Sightseeing around Kathmandu Valley.
  • Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2860m) trek to Chutok (2835m) 3 hrs
  • Day 04: Trek to Col Khari La (3081m) to Pangkongma (2950m) 6 hrs
  • Day 05: Trek to Kurke (3800m) 5 hrs
  • Day 06: Trek to Thuli Kharka (4200m) 6 hrs
  • Day 07: Trek to Khothey (3600m) 5 hrs
  • Day 08: Trek to Tangnag (4350m) 6 hrs
  • Day 09: Acclimatization and Rest day at Tangnag.
  • Day 10: Trek to Khare (4900m) 4 hrs
  • Day 11: Trek to Mera La (5415m) and Base Camp (5300m) 5 hrs
  • Day 12: Climb Base Camp to High Camp (5800m) 5 hrs
  • Day 13: Summit to Mera peak (6654m) and then return to Khare (4900m) 10 hrs
  • Day 14: Spare day in case of bad weather. Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 15: Trek to Khothey (3600m). 6 hrs
  • Day 16: Trek to Thuli Kharka(4200m) 6 hrs
  • Day 17: Trek to Lukla (2860m) 7 hrs
  • Day 18: Thirty five minutes flight to Kathmandu from Lukla early in the morning.
  • Day 19: Transfer to international airport for your final flight departure.

Mera Peak climbing detail itinerary

Day 01
Arrival day in Kathmandu

Arrive at Tribhuwan International Airport at Kathmandu (1348m). You will be met by our representative and transfer to hotel in Kathmandu/Bhaktapur and a short brief about the trekking and climbing after your refreshment.

Day 02
Pre-trip Meeting and Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley.

In the morning after breakfast, we will take you for the Kathmandu Valley sightseeing with tour guide in world heritage sites such as Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Swayambhunath, Kathmandu Durbar Square and many more and than meet to with climbing guide to preparations for the trip.

Day 03
Fly to Lukla (2860) trek to Chutok (2835m) 3 hrs

An early morning start takes us to Tribhuwan international Airport in Kathmandu for the 35 minute scenic flight to Tenzing and Hillary Airport at Lukla at 2804m. On arrival at the airport our guide will brief you and introduce our porters before we begin our trek towards up to the Chutok La pass at 2945m and over night at Chutok at elevation of 2835m. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 04
Trek - Col Khari La (3081m) to Pangkongma (2950m) 6 hrs

After the pass of Col Khari La the trail carries along mountain sides through the Khari Khola valley to set up camp in Pangkongma. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 05
Trek to Kurke (3800m) 5 hrs

A magnificent route via mountain crests through rocky and wild landscapes. Passing through and enjoying the splendid panorama of wooded regions below us. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 06
Trek to Thuli Kharka (4200m) 6 hrs

Today we climb up to a pass at 4400meters and descend towards Thuli Karkha, which mean "vast pasture". Overnight at tented camp.

Day 07
Trek to Khothey (3600m) 5 hrs

We descend on hillsides, by pleasant meadows and lower down through forests of blue Himalayan pines and rhododendrons. Beautiful views of the south side of Mera Peak. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 08
Trek to Tangnag (4350m) 6 hrs

We climb up the Hinku valley through summer pastures, near Lungsamba the valley narrows wedged between the Kusum Kangru 6369m and the west summit of Mera Peak 6255 meters. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 09
Acclimatization and Rest day at Tangnag.

Spending a day here in order to acclimatize and adjust to the thinning of the air. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 10
Trek to Khare (4900m) 4 hrs

Climb up along the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier, providing interesting views of the Mera Peak. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 11
Trek to Mera La (5415m) and Base Camp (5300m) 5 hrs

Progressing along the snowy glacier, we approach the pass the slope becomes steep. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 12
Climb Base Camp to High Camp (5800m) 5 hrs

One of the best parts of the trek. Stunning panoramas of giant mountains rising above 7000meters, among the highest on earth: Chamlang (7290m), Makalu (8475m) and Baruntse (7220m) to the east, Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8516m) and Nuptse to the north. Continuing westward the peaks of Ama Dablam, Cho Oyo (8153meters) and Kantega fill our view. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 13
Summit to Mera peak (6654m) and then return to Khare (4900m) 10 hrs

Start early in the morning depending on the weather condition. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 14
Spare day in case of bad weather. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 15
Trek to Khothey (3600m). 6 hrs

Leaving the mountains behind us our descent takes us through Tangnag before continuing back to Khothey 3600meters. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 16
Trek to Thuli Kharka(4200m) 6 hrs

Our trek Descends back the same way. overnight at tented camp

Day 17
Trek to Lukla (2860) 7 hrs

Finally we return to Lukla where the trek began, which will seem like a lifetime ago. Enjoying time to reflect on the trek as a group and the personal achievement of all those who took part. Also giving you time to explore the town. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 18
Thirty five minutes flight to Kathmandu from Lukla early in the morning.

Enjoying your last glimpse of the mountains you have recently visited for one last time on the 35 minute Scenic flight back to Kathmandu. On arrival in Kathmandu we are met and transferred back to our starting hotel. Overnight at hotel.

Day 19
Transfer to international airport for your final flight departure.

The trip ends, our Airport Representative will drop you to the Kathmandu international airport for your flight departure from Nepal.

Mera Peak climbing fixed departure!

Spring season

Autumn season

Start Date
End Date
Start Date
End Date
Availability
Booking
March 05, 2013 March 24, 2013 August 15, 2013 Sep 03, 2013 Avialable Book Now
March 15, 2013 April 03, 2013 Sep 08, 2013 Sept 27, 2013 Avialable Book Now
April 10, 2013 April 28, 2013 Sep 20, 2013 Oct 07, 2013 Avialable Book Now
April 22, 2013 May 10, 2013 Oct 05, 2013 Oct 23, 2013 Avialable Book Now
April 30, 2013 May 17, 2013 Oct 14, 2013 Nov 01, 2013 Avialable Book Now
May 10, 2013 May 28, 2013 Oct 25, 2013 Nov 13, 2013 Avialable Book Now
May 25, 2013 June 12, 2013 Nov 08, 2013 Nov 26, 2013 Avialable Book Now

Cost includes in the package


  • Kathmandu International Airport transfer by private vehicles.
  • Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu valley with private vehicles.
  • 3 nights standard accommodation in two/three star hotel in Kathmandu/Bhaktapur (bed with breakfast).
  • Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu airfare with domestic airport taxes.
  • All grounded transportation as per programs.
  • Mera Peak climbing permit and all other required necessary permits.
  • Arrangement of emergency helicopter service which will be paid by your travel insurance company.
  • Gokyo Treks Nepal's sleeping bag, down jackets, and walking stick, if necessary.
  • Gokyo Treks Nepal's provides duffle bag (keep yourself).
  • Medical supplies (first aid kit will be available).
  • All government applicable taxes.
  • All 3 major meals breakfast/lunch/dinner with hot drinks and tented accommodation during the trek en-route. (Twin sharing tent, dining tent, toilet tent, kitchen tent, staff tent, table, chairs and kitchen utensil etc.).
  • Staff: (Professional English speaking trekking guide, 1 cook, 1 kitchen helper, 1 climbing guide & necessary porters. (1 assistant guide for 5 plus people).
  • Salary, food, drinks, accommodation, equipements and transportation for Nepali crew.
  • Hot bucket shower (bath) during the trek.
  • Insurance for all the Nepalese staff.
  • Collective equipments such as a climbing rope, ice screws, snow bars, tent, snow sawel.
  • All necessary paper works and Makalu Barun National Park entry permit.
  • At the end we will provide special gift from Gokyo Treks.

Cost excludes in the package


  • Nepal entry visa fees.
  • Your travel insurance (it is mandatory in case of emergency).
  • Food while you are in Kathmandu.
  • Any donations and monuments entrance fees while sightseeing tour in Kathmandu Valley.
  • Garbage deposit (US$ 250), refundable after the climbing.
  • Personal climbing equipment and your personal nature expenses.
  • All the alcoholic and non alcoholic drinks.
  • Sweet things like chocolate.
  • Hot Shower during the trek.
  • International airfare and airport departure taxes.
  • Tips for the trekking crews & driver. (Tipping is expected but it is not mandatory).
  • Any others expenses which are not mentioned on including section.

Extra: Trip Advisor Notes :


  • US$ 50 per person/per day extra, if you wish to extend your trekking in the mountain.
  • If you wish to take budget hotel in Kathmandu, US$ 15 will be deducted from total trip cost.
  • US$ 45++per night for single room and 55++ per night for double room if you need extra accommodation in Kathmandu including breakfast.
  • US$ 300 for extra Sherpa climbing guide.
  • No hidden price and single supplement charge.

Equipments For The Climbing


Footwear
  • Lightweight hiking boots: Leather or fabric/leather with sturdy mid-sole and a Vibram sole.
  • Climbing boots: Plastic double boot. Aveolite liners for warmth recommended. (Vasque, Koflach, Scarpa)
  • Running shoes:For travel and easy walking
  • Sport sandal: That can be worn with socks. (Teva, Chaco)
  • Booties: Synthetic or down isulation. Any brand with thick foam soles.
  • Lightweight socks: Three to four pairs synthetic/wool blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
  • Mid-weight socks: Three to four pairs synthetic/wool blend (Bridgedale, Patagonia, Smartwool)
Clothing:
  • Jacket, synthetic or fleece: Synthetic jackets or pullovers are a great alternative to fleece because they are lighter and more compressible. Primaloft type fill or Polartec 100 or 200 fleece is recommended. (Wild Things Primaloft, Patagonia Puff Jacket)
  • Synthetic insulated pants: Primaloft or Polarguard 3D. Full side zips are recommended. Mountain Hardwear Chugach 3D pants are an example. An acceptable alternative are fleece pants Polartec 100 or 200, but they are bulky, heavier and less versatile.
  • Down insulated jacket: Expedition weight with a hood. (Marmot, North Face, Mountain Hardwear)
  • Lightweight long underwear top: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
  • Mid-weight long underwear tops: Zip-T neck design is good. Light colors are better for tops because they are cooler when hiking in direct sunlight and just as warm as dark colors when worn underneath other layers. (Patagonia, North Face, Mountain Hardwear)
  • Lightweight long underwear bottoms: (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
  • Mid-weight underwear bottoms: Dark colors are preferable because they do not show dirt. (Patagonia Capilene, REI, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
  • Briefs: Four pairs synthetic or cotton. Running shorts also work well for underwear. (Patagonia Capilene)
  • Short-sleeved shirts: Two synthetic; most nylon running shirts or athletic shirts work. (North Face, Patagonia, or any brand of PowerDry)
  • Waterproof breathable jacket & pants: Jacket must have a hood, pants must have full-length side zips. (Arc'Teryx, Marmot, Mountain Equipment Co-op)
Head & Hand Gear:
  • Bandana: Two to three traditional cotton style.
  • Sun hat: Any lightweight hat with a good brim or visor.
  • Wool or fleece hat: Any brand of warm hat that can go over ears.
  • Balaclava: At least one. Some people layer a very thin Capilene balaclava under a thicker fleece one.
  • Liner gloves: Lightweight synthetic (Patagonia Capilene or any brand of PowerStretch)
  • Windstopper fleece gloves: (any brand of Windstopper fleece)
  • Gore-Tex Mittens w/ pile liners: Expedition weight liner for the first pair, second pair should have a light weight pile liner. (Outdoor Research)
Accessories:
  • Ski goggles: (Bolle, Smith)
  • Gaiters w/reinforced lowers: Short, simple gaiters are best, such as Outdoor Research's Rocky Mountain Low Gaiters.
  • Headlamp w/spare bulb: (Petzl, Black Diamond)
  • Spare batteries: For headlamp and other gadgets you bring.
  • Sunglasses #1: For high altitude. 1 pair of high quality 100%UV and 100%IR with a minimum of 80% light reduction, side shields such as those found on “glacier glasses” are not recommended, but size and shape of lens should offer maximum protection from bright light on snow.
  • Sunglasses #2: One pair high quality 100%UV and 100%IR, for lower elevations, also as a backup. It is important to have a spare pair of sunglasses. 
Climbing Equipment:
  • Ice axe: General mountaineering axe. 60 cm length is good for most people but it does depend on your height. Shaft should be straight, not curved. You will need a leash to attach your axe to you harness as well as a “wrist loop”. Bring a commercial leash designed for glacier travel or 6 ft of 9 / 16 inch webbing and your guide will help you construct one. (Grivel, Black Diamond)
  • Crampons: 12 point step-in (Grivel, Black Diamond)
  • Harness: Alpine style, you should not have to step through leg loops to put it on and off. It should be lightweight and fully adjustable. (Black Diamond)
  • Carabiners: Two large locking “pear” shaped, 6 regular mountaineering carabiners (avoid small gate specialized sport climbing ‘biners) (Black Diamond, Petzl, Clog)
  • Prussik cord: 20 feet of 6mm perlon which is also known as static accessory cord.(don’t cut it, bring in one piece)
  • Ascenders: One left or right hand orientation, does not matter (Petzl)
  • Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid
Camping Gear:
  • Foam pad: (Ridgerest)
  • Water bottles: Two 1-liter, leak-proof wide-mouth. (Nalgene, Lexan)
  • Trekking poles: Make sure they are adjustable and can extend or shorten. (Leki, Black Diamond)
  • Pack towel: Small or medium size. Do not bring “terrycloth”, bandanas work in a pinch. (PackTowl)
  • Backpack: 5000 cubic inches (80 liters) or more, internal frame. Top opening mountaineer’s rucksack style is best. Avoid large zipper openings and excessive outside pockets. Larger packs are better than smaller, because they are easier to pack with cold hands and they distribute loads more effectively. (Gregory, North Face, Dana, Arc’Teryx) 
  • Small day pack: Optional, should be small and simple, can double as stuff sack or organizer, useful for airline carry-on and for while touring in cities. (Black Diamond, Lowe)
  • Sleeping bag: Expedition quality rated to at least minus 20F (-25C) ((Marmot, North Face, Moonstone)
  • Sleeping pad: Inflating, full-length (Therm-a-rest)
Medical & Personal:
  • Sunscreen: SPF 30 or higher, non-oily (Dermatone or Terrapin)
  • Lipscreen: SPF 30 or higher, any brand
  • Toiletry kit: toothbrush, toothpaste, lotion, alcohol-based anti-bacterial hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial soap, comb/brush, shave kit, lighter, small long-burning candle, needle/thread, throat lozenges (bring travel size bottles to keep you kit small)
  • First-aid kit: Ibuprofen/aspirin, assorted band-aids, moleskin, little of hydrogen peroxide, Neosporin-type suave, Nu-skin spray, small gauze pad, roll of adhesive tape, tweezers, safety pins, small bottle of water purification tablets. Include any prescription travel meds that might prescribed by your doctor. (antibiotics, Diamox, sleep aids)
  • Zip-loc bags: Always useful
  • Ear plugs: Very useful in noisy lodges and tents. Available in most hardware stores.
  • Water purification tablets: Such as Potable Aqua brand iodine tablets. You will be given plenty of purified water during your trek and climb, but one bottle of backup purification tablets is always a good idea for your travels. They are especially useful in hotels on you way to Nepal. You should not drink untreated tap water anywhere in Asia and bottled water in some rare cases might not be available.
Travel Items:
  • Hiking shorts and/or skirt/sarong: 1 pair (any brand of Supplex short)
  • Lightweight pants: One pair (any brand Supplex or “stretch woven” pant)
  • Camera / video camera w/ extra batteries: We suggest plenty of non-rechargeable power, such as lithium batteries. Cold weather is hard on ni-cad and regular alkaline batteries and solar recharging is not always an option.
    Film: Bring plenty, it is expensive in Nepal. Be sure to keep in your carry-on luggage, in clear zip- lock bags so that it can be inspected at airports. If you bring a digital camera, bring extra media storage cards.
  • Expedition duffel bag: 8000+ cubic inches (130+ liter). Light colors are better for labeling with your name. Buy something well built with large, strong zippers. These bags are strapped to Yaks! (North Face, Patagonia “Black Hole”, Wild Things “Burro Bag”)
  • Travel bags: Extra duffel bags are useful for storing things in Kathmandu, in Namche and at Base Camp. Most soft sided “carry-on’ type bags work well. (Camp Trails “Packable”, Wild Things “carry-on”) You might also use extra large stuff sacks. Plan to fly to Nepal with two large duffels, and some smaller bags for organizing inside.
  • Nylon stuff sacks: Several different sizes, light colors preferable for labeling. (Outdoor Research)
  • Long sleeve shirt: Cotton, comfortable

Medical Cover


All of our leaders are trained in first-aid and have a good knowledge of high altitude medical problems. The expedition will be equipped with the following.

  • A well stocked first aid and medical kit sufficient to counter any possible mountaineering ailments, from headache to serious injury.
  • Oxygen equipment for medical use only.
  • A portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow bag)
  • Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for helicopter evacuation (see below). 

Insurance


Insurances is the essential for Travelers. Insured for any medical expenses they might incur while on the Trip. At the start of we see your insurance document and will note down the policy number and emergency contact number. We recommended a comprehensive travel insurance policy that covers repatriation and evacuation in case of a medical emergency, cancellation and curtailment as well as baggage and valuables, If your tour involves certain adventurous activates . You will need to make sure your policy specifically covers these activates. You may also need specific cover for expensive camera equipment.

Many credit card companies offer “complementary travel insurance” however the majority of such policies offer virtually no cover and will not be accepted as adequate travel insurance. If you are planning on using credit card insurance you must bring along proof that the policy covers medical emergencies.

Emergency & Rescue


Climbers should be aware that there is very little in the way of rescue organization for handling climbers's emergencies in Nepal. If you are Climbing with a reputable Climbing agency then their staff will be trained to handle most contingencies. if you are Climbing independently then you will have to rely on your own initiative to handle any problems. This is why trekking alone is foolhardy in the extreme.

At all times try to be aware of the location of possible sources of help, medical clinics, police or army posts etc. Try to find out where there are working telephones or radios as you pass along the trails.
At all times try to be aware of the location of possible sources of help, medical clinics, police or army posts etc. Try to find out where there are working telephones or radios as you pass along the trails. All trekkers should make sure that they are covered by a suitable travel insurance policy. This, at least, must cover the cost of a helicopter rescue, which is the only practical way of evacuating a seriously ill or injured patient from most of the trekking areas. It is essential to leave details of this policy with a responsible agency "Gokyo Treks & Expedition Pvt Ltd", in Kathmandu office. You might also register your details and intended plans with your embassy in Kathmandu is an extremely sensible step to take.