Mera Peak (6654m) is highest permitted climbing peak of Nepal, rises to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the wild and heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hungu Drangkas and is not truly speaking part of the Khumbu Himal. It should also be noted that there is a discrepancy between the official height given by the NMA (6654m) and the Schneider Map (6476m).
The first ascent of Mera Peak was, made by J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing on 20 May 1953, by the now standard route from the Mera La. It was during this season that Roberts made the first western exploration of the Lumding, Hinku (Inukhu) and Hongu valleys. It would appear that Mera did not receive a subsequent ascent until 1978 when French climbers Marcel Jolly, G. Baus and L. Honills climbed the North Peak, following the same route as Roberts but traversing along the connecting ridge to the further summit.
Both the Hongu and Hinku valleys remain uninhabited although there are Kharka in the Upper Hinku basin where Sherpa from the south, near Pangkongma, graze their animals during the grass-growing monsoon. By its standard route from the Mera La, the ascent is technically straightforward; however, after a heavy fall of snow or when the maze of crevasses are open, the way can be long and demanding. Far and above the most rewarding aspect of a trip to Mera is a chance to venture into a little-visited and as yet unspoilt region of Nepal where the hillsides are still densely forested and a need to be self-sufficient is essential. There is also, of course, the pleasure of going above 6000m.